Pakistan is a
land of many splendours. The scenery changes northward from coastal
beaches, lagoons and mangrove swamps in the south to sandy deserts,
desolate plateaus, fertile plains, dissected upland in the middle
and high mountains with beautiful valleys, snow-covered peaks and
eternal glaciers in the north.
The variety of landscape
divides Pakistan into six major regions:
the North High Mountainous
Region, the Western Low Mountainous Region, the Balochistan
Plateau, the Potohar Uplands, the Punjab and the Sindh Plains.
High
Mountain Region: Stretching in the North, from east to west, are a
series of high mountain ranges which separate Pakistan from China,
Russia and Afghanistan. They include the Himalayas, the Karakoram
and the Hindukush. The Himalayas spread in the north-east and the
Karakoram rises on the north-west of the Himalayas and extends
eastward up to Gilgit. The Hindu Kush mountains lie to the
north-west of the Karakoram, but extend eastward into Afghanistan.
With the assemblage of 35 giant peaks over 24,000 ft. high (7,315m),
the region is the climbers' paradise. Many summits are even higher
than 26,000 ft.(7,925 m) and the highest K-2(Mt.Godwin Austin) is
exceeded only by Mt.Everest. Inhospitable and technically more
difficult to climb than even Everest, they have taken the biggest
toll of human lives in the annals of mountaineering.
The
passes are rarely lower than the summit of Mt. Blanc and several are
over 18,000 ft. (5,485 m). The Karakoram Highway, that passes
through the mountains, is the highest trade route in the world.
Besides, the region abounds in vast glaciers, large lakes and green
valleys which have combined at places to produce holiday resorts
such as Gilgit, Hunza and Yasin in the west and the valleys of
Chitral, Dir, Kaghan and Swat drained by rivers Chitral, Pankkora,
Kunhar and Swat respectively in the east. Dotted profusely with
scenic spots having numerous streams and rivulets, thick forests of
pine and junipers and a vast variety of fauna and flora, the Chitral,
Kaghan and Swat valleys have particularly earned the reputation of
being the most enchanting tourist resorts of Pakistan.
South of the high mountains,
the ranges lose their height gradually and settle down finally in
the Margalla hills (2,000-3,000 ft.) in the vicinity of Islamabad,
the Capital of Pakistan, and Swat and Chitral hills, north of river
Kabul. Although the climate of the region is extremely diverse,
according to aspect and elevation, yet as a whole it remains under
the grip of severe cold from November to April. May, June and July
are pleasant months. The southeren slopes receive heavy rainfall and
consequently are covered with forest of deodar, pine, poplar and
willow trees. The more northerly ranges and north-facing slopes
receive practically no rains and are, therefore, without trees.

There is a considerable
trans-humane from the mountains to the plains in winter and from
plains to the mountains in summer. The permanent settlers grow corn,
maize, barely, wheat and rice on the terraced fields and also raise
orchards of apples, apricots, peaches and grapes. Peaks and Glaciers
Eric Shipton, a great mountainer who perished in Pakistan's Northern
Areas, wrote in his account. To describe this region is to indulge
in superlatives, for everywhere you look are the highest, the
longest and the largest mountains, glaciers and rivers in the world.
Making some allowance for
Shipton's tendency towards slight exaggeration, born out of awe and
fascination, the fact remains that Pakistan boasts of the largest
share of the highest mountain peaks in the world. Its own highest
peak, the famed and dreaded K-2, is the second highest in the world,
being just some `ropes' short of the Everest in Nepal. With due
respect to the Everest, K-2 is regarded as far more firmidable to
climb than its relatively facile superior. Three of the mightiest
mountain systems- the Hindukush, the Karakorams and the Himalayas-
adorn the forehead of Pakistan. The second highest peak of
Himalayas, as also of Pakistan, is the Nanga Parbat which literally
means the "Naked Mountain".
Pakistan has seven of the 16
tallest peaks in Asia. The statistics are simply baffling: 40 of the
world's 50 highest mountains are in Pakistan; in Baltistan over 45
peaks touch or cross the 20,000 foot mark; in Gilgit within a radius
of 65 miles, there are over two dizens peaks ranging in height
between 18,000 to 26,000 feet. 
The awe-inspiring beauty
provided inspiration to a Pakistani writer to observe lyrically, "in
Pakistan's lofty mountain regions, reaching for the sky doesn't seem
too ambitious". Pakistan's Eight Thousanders: There are a total of
14 main peaks soaring above 8000 metres in the world. Out of these,
8 are located in Nepal, 5 in Pakistan and 1 in China. It has become
prestigious to make these peaks as targets by mountaineers every
year. In fact, successful climb over these peaks is considered an
enviable measure of their attainment. By far, the largest number of
mountaineering expeditions visiting Pakistan has been coming from
Japan.
K-2 (8611m) It is the second
highest mountain the world. It was first attempted by Martin
Conway's expedition in 1902 which was composed of British, Austrian
and Swiss climbers. Ashraf Aman was the first Pakistani climber to
climb on top of K-2 with five other climbers of the Jap-Pak
expedition in 1977, with Ichire Yoshizawa as its leader and Isao
Shinkai as the technical leader.
Nanga
Parbat (8125m) It is also known as the killer mountain. It claimed
the life of AF Mummery, leader of an expedition and two porters in
1895. Since then Nanga Parbat has cost scores of lives, though quite
a few have successfully scaled it. Harmann Buhl was the first to set
foot on this formidable peak in 1953. In spite of its bloody past
record, Nanga Parbat is still the most sought after target. Its
dangerous challenge seems to add spurs to the determination of
climbers.
Hidden Peak (8068m) This
peak was first attempted in 1892 by Martin Conway's expedition who
gave it this name because it was hidden by the neighbouring peaks of
Baltoro glacier. The peak was first conquered in 1958 by an American
expedition. Nick clinch was the leader. The climbing leaders Peter
Schoening and Kanfuran were the two summiters.
Broad Peak (8047m) This peak
was also named by Martin Conway and was first attempted by a German
expedition headed by Karl Herligk offer in 1954. The peak was
climbed in 1957 when the entire team of four climbers with Marcus
Schmuck scaled it.
In the far-north of Pakistan
are valleys which are closed within the silent, brooding forts of
these mountains and are almsot as high as the mountains themselves.
Here dwell, from times immemorial, various tribes differing in race
and culture. If one tribe has Mongol features, its neighbour is
obviously Aryan. Separated by insurmountable obstacles, these tribes
very often live a totally land-locked existence blissfully unaware
of the world beyond. But, a traveller is simply wonderstruck by one
common element - Islam.

Every-where you hear the
familiar Assalam-o-Alaikum, the universal Muslim greeting and
welcome. and no matter how small or poor the inhibtation, the same
muezzin's call to prayer "Allah-u-Akbar rings in the thin mountain
air, issuing from the minarets of mosques hidden in the inaccessible
fold of these ranges pulsates an infinite variety of life; animals
reptiles, birds, insects and plants. There is, of course, the yak
which is an enormous but docile beast, at once the beast of burden
and food. It is notable in the wildlife of these regions, but, its
hunting is strictly restricted and in many areas totally forbidden
by law.
Glaciers:
Pakistan has more glaciers
than any other land outside the North and South Poles. Pakistan's
glacial area covers some 13,680 sq.km which represents an average of
13 per cent of mountain regions of the upper Indus Basin. Pakistan's
glaciers can rightly claim to possess the greatest mass and
collection of glaciated space on the face of earth. In fact, in the
lap of the Karakoram of Pakistan alone there are glaciers whose
total length would add up to abvoe 6,160 sq. km. To put it more
precisely, as high as 37 per cent of the Karakoram area is under its
glaciers against Himalayas' 17 per cent and European Alps' 22 per
cent. The Karakorams have one more claim to proclaim; its souther
flank (east and west of the enormous Biafo glacier) has a
concentration of glaciers which works out to 59 per cent of its
area.
There is a historical reason
for the fact that we, and the world outside, are better acquainted
with glaciers in the Nanga Parbat region. It is through this region,
hazardous though it is, that man has trudged to and fro since the
beginning of his civilized history of movement and migration. The
Siachin glacier is 75 kms. The Hispar (53 kms) joins the Biafo at
the Hispar La (5154.16 metres (16,910 ft) to form an ice corridor
116.87 kms (72 miles) long. The Batura, too is 58 kms in length.
But, the most outstanding of these rivers of ice is the 62 kms
Baltoro. This mighty glacier fed by some 30 tributaries constitues a
surface of 1291.39 sq. kms. Western Low Mountains Region.
These western low mountains
spread from the Swat and Chitral hills in a north-south direction
(along which alexander the Great led his army in 327 B.C) and cover
a large portion of the North-West Frontier Province. North of the
river Kabul their altitude ranges from 5,000 to 6,000 ft. in
Mohamand and Malakand hills. The aspect of these hills is
exceedingly dreary and the eye is everywhere met by the dry rivers
between long rows of rocky hills and crags, scantily covered with
coarse grass, scrub wood and dwarf palm. South of the river Kabul
spreads the Koh-e-Sofed Range with a general height of 10,000 ft.
Its highest peak, Skaram, being 15,620 ft. South of Koh-e-Sofed are
the Kohat and Waziristan hills (5,000 ft) which are traversed by the
Kurram and Tochi rivers, and are bounded on south by Gomal River.
The whole area is a
tangle of arid hills composed of limestone and sandstone. South of
the Gomal River, the Sulaiman Mountains run for a distance of about
483 kilomaters in a north-south direction, Takht-e-Sulaiman (11,295
ft.) being its highest peak. At the southern end lie the low Marri
and Bugti hills. The area shows an extraordinary landscape of
innumerable scarps, small plateaus and steep craggy out-crops with
terraced slopes and patches of alluvial basins which afford little
cultivation.

Kirthar
Range South of the Sulaiman Mountains is the Kirthar Range which
forms a boundary between the Sindh plain and the Balochistan
plateau. It consists of a series of ascending ridges running
generally north to south with broad flat valleys in-between. The
highgest peak named Kutte ji Kabar (dog's grace is 6,878 ft. above
sea level. Bleak, rugged and barren as these hills are, they afford
some pasturage for flocks of sheep and goats. The valleys are green
with grass and admit cultivation up to a highest of 4,000 ft.
Historical Passes The western mountains have a number of passes,
which are of special geographical and historical interest. For
centuries, they have been watching numerous kings, generals and
preachers passing through them and the events that followed brought
about momentous changes in the annals of mankind.
Climate
Although the country is in
the monsoon region, it is arid, except for the southern slopes of
the Himalayas and the sub-Mountainous tract which have a rainfall
from 76 to 127 cm. Balochistan is the driest part of the country
with an average rainfall of 21 cm. On the southern ranges of the
Himalayas, 127 cm. of precipitation takes place, while under the lee
of these mountains (Gilgit and Baltistan) rainfall is hardly 16 cm.
Rainfall also occurs from western cyclonic distrubances originating
in the Mediterranean.
It is appreciable in the
western mountains and the immediate forelying area; hre the rainfall
average ranges from 27 to 76 cm. The contribution of these western
distrurbances to rainfall over the plains is about 4 cm. A large
part of the precipitation in the northern mountain system is in the
form of snow which feeds the rivers. The all-pervasive aridity over
most of Pakistan, the predominant influence on the life and habitat
of the people, coupled with the climatic rhythm, characteristic of a
monsoon climate, are conducive to homogeneity of the land.

Seasons The four
well-marked seasons in Pakistan are:-
(i) Cold season (December to
March).
(ii) Hot season (April to June).
(iii) Monsoon season (July to September).
(iv) Post-Monsoon season (October and November).
The cold season sets in by
the middle of December. This period is characterised by fine
weather, bracing air-low humidity and large diurnal range of
temperature. Winter distrubances in this season accordingly cause
fairly widespread rain. Average mimimum and maximum temperatures are
4 oC and 18 oC, though on occasions the mercury falls well below
freezing point. The winter sun is glorious. The hot season is
usually dry. Relative humidity in May and June varies from 50 per
cent in the morning to 25 per cent or less in the afternoon. The
temperature soars to 40 oC and beyond. The highest recorded
temperature at Jaccobabad in June is 53 oC. While the interior is
blazing hot, the temperature along the sea coast ranges between 25
oC to 35 oC, but the humidity persists around 70 to 80 per cent.
The south-west monsoon
reaches Pakistan towards the beginning of July and establishes
itself by the middle of the month. The strength of the monsoon
current increases form June to July; it then remains steady, and
starts retreating towards the end of August, though occasionally, it
continues to be active even in September when some of the highest
floods of the Indus Basin have been recorded. From the middle of
September to the middle of November is the transitory period which
may be called the post-monsoon season.
In October, the maximum
temperature is of the order of 34 oC to 37 oC all over Pakistan,
while the nights are fairly cool with the minimum temperature around
16 oC. In the month of November, both the maximum and the mimimum
temperatures fall by about 6 oC and the weather becomes pleasant.
October and November are by far the driest months all over the
plains of Pakistan. |